The Art of Eating Sushi
My memories of Japan consists of the pink juicy flesh of plum wrapped in paper thin layers of prosciutto, the dollop of milky almond cream quivering on a porcelain soup ladle, large sticky grains of rice glistening under grilled fish, its tender flesh eaten gingerly, The foggy steam rising from a bowl of miso soup engulfing my lungs, fat strips of soba, slippery and gelatinous on my tongue, and the circular crust of takoyaki breaking open to reveal mealy dough sharpened with the sweet tang of mayonnaise and spring onions.
And the sushi… smooth slices of salmon overpowering casually, carefully, artfully over a handformed ball of rice. Eating sushi is a ritual delivered to obtain the most sensuous of experiences. I lingered in Japan searching for the perfect sake (salmon) sushi
On one random day, we happen to amble into a restaurant called Gyogyo. We stayed in the counter, what westerners coin a sushi bar. I pointed at the fresh slabs of fish displayed while the manager, the only one who can manage a pidgin of English attempted to translate. Salmon. Tuna. Salmon Roe. He stopped at a satin slab of white marble. “ika.. ika” he kept saying, flailing for the English word for squid. I ordered it anyway.
My shake sushi came first. A good sushi bar will always serve only one or two pieces with a bowl of soy sauce and a smidgen of wasabi. Both condiments meant to sterilize and flavor the raw fish. The powdered wasabi is creamy, the consistency of toothpaste unlike the greenish clumps of clay usually served in fast food restaurants. The manager also let me try real wasabi, grated fresh from the root crop. It tasted grainy and more distinct. Separate. He explained that it is for sashimi and not sushi. If you are to follow ancient tradition, you have to eat sushi with your hands, grasping your thumb and middle finger on both sides with the index finger on top. I picked the sushi gingerly, smudge a bit of wasabi on top of the salmon before dipping it in the bowl of soy sauce.
Many a sushi chef will wince upon seeing it being dipped on the rice side, breaking the perfect balance of vinegar and rice. Rather, the soy must touch the fish only. Slowly put the whole piece in your mouth, the flesh of the fish touching the tongue and the rice resting on the roof of your mouth. I felt the plump morsel jiggle, it was cool, firm and soft. A searing fever of wasabi shot through my nose, then the saltiness of the soy to be followed by the mild tartness of the rice.
Then in one final moment, all the pieces came together, blending in perfect harmony. I closed my eyes and dreamed of satin and silk, a whisper of a haiku, and the sound of the rushing river. ( email the author at wandergirl28@gmail.com or visit www.theunlonelyplanet.wordpress.com)
Enclosed is a recipe for sushi
For the su-meshi ( vinegared rice)
1 cup Japanese rice 8 tsp ricevinegar, 4 tsp caster sugar ( superfine) , 1 tsp salt
Put rice in large bowl and wash in water until it runs clear,. Tip into a sieve and leave drain for 1 hour. Put rice into a small deep pan with 15 percent more water ( i.e. 11/5 cup water to 1 cup rice) Cover and bring to a boil. This takes about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat and simmer for 12 minutes without lifting the lid. You should hear a faint crackling noise. The rice should now have absorbed the water. Remove from heat and leave for 10 minutes. Transfer cooked rice to a large bowl. In a small bowl mix vinegar sugar and salt until dissolved. Add to rice, fluffing rice with spatula. Do not mash. Ask someone to fan the rice to cool it quickly. This process makes the sushimeshi glossy. Cover the towel with wet dishtowel and leave to cool.
For the Sushi: Use a sharp knife to cut all fish fillets into 3×11/2 inches pieces, ¼ inch thick. Place on tray, cover with plastic wrap and chill. Place the sumeshi in bowl. Have a small bowl filled with water and vinegar for molding Wet hand with the vinegared water and scoop 11/2 tbsp sumeshi into your palm. Gently but firmly grip the sumeshi and make a rectangular block. Do not squash the rice, but ensure that the grains stick together. The size of the blocks must be smaller than the toppings. Put the sumeshi block on a damp chopping board. Taking a piece of topping in your palm, rub a little wasabi paste in the middle of it. Put the sumeshi block on top of the fish slice and gently press it. Form your palm into a cup and shape the nigiri-zushi to a smooth surfaced mound. Place it on a serving tray. Do not overwork as the warmth of your hand can cause the topping to lose their freshness. Serve immediately


